Over-exposure Eggplant

A vegan eggplant parm-like thing you can make in an hour

I finished a big chunk of my novel at the beginning of August (more on that soon) and I thought I’d take a break and spend a blissful few weeks actually finishing recipes I had notes and photos for, and pump them out in a fun end-of-summer flurry, delighting both readers and myself. And then I did the first one, promoted on Instagram for a couple of days, and quickly thought, “Well, that was a terrible plan, descend back into your novel hole immediately, don’t annoy everybody all August long, Jesus Christ, who do you think you are?” and also, “Honestly shouldn’t I be famous? Why does nobody get how fucking great this recipe is?” and also endless fugue of, “You’re promoting too much / You’re not promoting enough!” and “Don’t be thirsty / Don’t be scared!” and also, “Why don’t you stress and post about all the ongoing genocides instead of this?”and also, “Wow, can you please calm down, so many people post a bunch of stories daily and you enjoy and admire them!” and also, “Social media is a scourge, I shall cast my phone into the sea!” and also, “Why aren’t you a good internet citizen, why can’t you make time to repost others as they often so kindly repost you, you selfish little shit?” and also, etc, fun break so far!

But I’m pressing on with this eggplant recipe because…well, look. Just now I lightly drafted some belaboured unpacking of my “fear of exposure,” and even tried to link it back to this essay I never finished about Alex Honnold who climbs sheer rock faces without a rope (very similar to blogging, obv), and you know what? Fuck it! I’m pushing ahead because I said I would and sometimes that’s gotta be enough? Maybe more than that, though, I do really believe in this recipe. I think it’s so delicious, I make it all the time, and compared to many an eggplant parm — especially vegan ones — it’s very easy to make. What a headnote, eh? Cookbook agents, call me!

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Simple Vegan Eggplant Parm-ish

This one features a big eggplant sliced widthwise.

I’ve tried to make a lot of vegan eggplant parms in my day, and I have to admit I never really liked them. It was too much fussing around for something kind of mid. And while on pizza or as the final layer of a lasagna I really like a tapioca-based gooey cheese, or even melted Daiya or Violife shreds, for some reason I don’t like it alongside eggplant. Too much softness? Too much goo? But so many non-vegan eggplant parm recipes emphasize the gooey-ness, so I kept trying. Until I didn’t. And now I’m free! Now I just slather eggplant slices with a version of my tofu ricotta, top with breadcrumbs, that’s it, that’s the parm, and it’s GREAT.

If you’re thinking “Wow, you rely a lot on tofu ricotta, what is this, 1998?” believe me, I have anticipated this question and justify my reliance thusly: it’s actually very good. It just is! For a while I got away from using blended tofu in things because it just felt So Vegan, but it seems to me it’s back in a big way.

Hetty Lui McKinnon

’s making incredible creamy tofu sauces, Bon Appetit is swooning over “whipped tofu” like it’s something new…maybe people are coming to understand that in addition to the myriad ways it enhances the Asian cuisines where it was born, tofu is also essentially the same thing as fresh cheese or ricotta or whatever, just not pre-salted and made with milk from blended, strained beans instead of squeezed from the udders of cows, which I personally think is way less weird. Get into it!

Also plain vegan yogurt has gotten better and more readily available over the years, and I think it adds a lot to a tofu-based cheesy thing, what with its lactic acid twang. And once again, the drum I will bang forever: add fermented beancurd and umeboshi paste and you’ve got yourself a hum-dinger (I’ve provided alternatives in case you don’t have or can’t find these, but I really believe seeking them out is worth it for the purpose of levelling up your vegan meals)!

Here, the eggplant was sliced lengthwise. Drama! I also added spinach to store-bought sauce because I love greens.

Ingredients:

• One medium-large eggplant, or two smaller ones (700-900 grams / 1.5-2lbs)

• One 350 gram block of tofu, firm or extra firm (I use Soyganic extra firm)

• One clove garlic, crushed or chopped

• 1/4 cup / 60 ml plain, unsweetened vegan yogurt (I use Silk almond)

• 1 tsp umeboshi paste (sub lemon juice or apple cider vinegar to taste)

• Two squares (about 1 tbsp) of white fermented beancurd (sub a tablespoon of miso, doenjang, and/or nutritional yeast)

• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

• 2 tablespoons unsweetened plant milk (I use soy), or water if you don’t have milk

• Salt and black pepper to taste

• 2 scallions or ramps, chopped (optional)

• 2 tablespoons chopped basil or herb of your choice (optional)

• 1/2 cup panko bread crumbs (I forgot to weigh, sorry!)

• 2 tbsp nutritional yeast

• ½ tsp oregano, gochugaru, and several grinds pepper (optional!)

• Marina sauce, jarred or homemade (I sometimes make a quick one like this) (optional)

Method:

• Preheat oven to 425 degrees F, 220 C (no fan).

• I like to peel a few strips of the skin off the eggplant so it’s easier to eat once cooked, but do how you like. Then slice into 3/4 inch thick slices, either length or width-wise, depending on the look you want (see photos above and below for different options). Sprinkle salt all over the slices on both sides, and lay them out on a sheet tray to hang out while you prepare the filling.

• Crumble the tofu into a big measuring cup, dump in everything else, and blend until pretty smooth with an immersion blender. If you don’t have one, you can use a regular blender or food processor, but that makes this less of an easy weeknight recipe due to hauling out appliances and cleaning them. You could also mash everything as best as you can with a potato masher or strong fork. It won’t be as smooth and creamy, but it’ll still be tasty!

• Add chopped scallions, herbs, salt, and pepper to taste. Keep in mind the eggplant will be thoroughly salted, and it’s nice if the breadcrumbs are salty, too, so don’t go too, too crazy.

• Dab the water off the eggplants with a paper towel, then pour ¼ cup olive oil on the pan. Drag each eggplant slice through the oil, then flip and drag again, so each slice is at least lightly oiled.

• Divide the tofu mixture evenly over the eggplant slices, and then spread it out to the edge of each slice. I find this easiest to do with my (clean!) fingers like this:

• Grind a little more pepper over top if you like, and bake on the middle rack for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, mix the panko, three tablespoons olive oil, dried spices, and salt and pepper to taste in a small bowl until the panko is all coated in oil.

• Take the eggplant out of the oven and evenly distribute crumbs over the tofu mixture.

• Put back in the oven for another 15 minutes and heat up or prepare your quick marinara sauce (If using. This is also good without sauce if you want a different vibe. Or try it with pesto? Whatever you like!)

• After fifteen minutes, the panko should be golden brown. If not, let it go a bit longer till it is, but watch carefully so it doesn’t burn. Remove from the oven and let rest five minutes or so.

• To serve, put a pool of sauce on a plate (or not), and place a slice of eggplant on top. Serve with salad or steamed broccoli or sautéed rapini (I do like it with something green!) or just on its own.

Here are some small ones, served with no sauce and a very nice escarole salad.